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Arriving there is simple: just exit the Haifa-Tel Aviv highway in Caesarea intersection and continue by following the excellent signing system that will direct you to the north entrance of the National Park.

Some History

Caesarea that was given as a gift by Augustus Caesar to Herod the Great few years before Christ, was built as a vast, fortified and magnificent seaport, for being a trading center with countries overseas. Caesarea was a small Sidonian port city named Straton's Tower, and for a short time it was included in the kingdom of Alexander Jannaeus, the big Hasmonean king until it was given in 30 BC to Herod, the Jewish king on behalf of the Romans, who rebuilt the city in 22 - 10 BC.

Josephus Flavius writes about it: 5. And when he observed that there was a city by the sea-side that was much decayed, (its name was Strato's Tower,) but that the place, by the happiness of its situation, was capable of great improvements from his liberality, he rebuilt it all with white stone, and adorned it with several most splendid palaces, wherein he especially demonstrated his magnanimity; for the case was this, that all the sea-shore between Dora and Joppa, in the middle, between which this city is situated, had no good haven… But the king, by the expenses he was at, and the liberal disposal of them, overcame nature, and built a haven larger than was the Pyrecum (33) [at Athens]…. And over against the mouth of the haven, upon an elevation, there was a temple for Caesar, which was excellent both in beauty and largeness; and therein was a Colossus of Caesar, not less than that of Jupiter Olympius, which it was made to resemble. Wars of the Jews, I: 21 5-7. Courtesy of http://www.earlychristianwritings.com/text/josephus/josephus.htm

By exploring its antiques, it is highly evident to which extent Caesarea was built as a sumptuous city. During the roman period Caesarea was the biggest city in Judea, the dwelling place of the Roman Commissioner and garrison. Its population was a mixture of Jews, Samaritans and foreigners, and very little was needed to ignite the atmosphere and start another of the many conflicts that divided them. One of this strives in 66 AD, about a passing permit across a synagogue, was the triggering pretext for the First Jewish-Roman War. It is from here where the Roman legions marched into lunching their suppressing campaign against the revolt, and it is here where Vespasian, the Roman commander, was declared as the Roman emperor. After the revolt and the Second Temple Destruction, it became the capital of the Roman Iudaea Province, and as a token of gratitude to their help in suppressing the Jewish revolt, its inhabitants were exempted from paying many tributes.

In the second century AD the Jewish settlement in Caesarea was renewed, and in the time of Mishna and Talmud [between the first and sixth centuries AD, the periods of sealing the unwritten doctrine and commentary of the creed] it became a dwelling place of many of the Mishna sages and the Talmud interpreters. Some of the teachings of Rabbi Akibba and his followers took place here, and the Second Jewish-Roman War started from here. In the Byzantine period it became an important Christian center and then its population reached a pick of 100,000, until the seventh century AD, when it was invaded by the Arabs and like all the Land of Israel it was almost totally abandoned, becoming a marginal small port on the costal line of the ancient Arab kingdom. The next historical period that left its mark on Caesarea was the Crusades when in 1101 the city was conquered by the crusaders from the Granier house that fortified the city and established here a port until it was conquered by the Mamluk sultan Baybars in 1265 and totally laid waste by his successor, el-Ashraf. For hundreds of years Caesarea stood in its desolation until Muslim refugees populated it again in the Ottoman period who built here a small agricultural village.  

The Tour

I recommend on starting the tour with a visit to the North side, the Crusader part and to the entrance gate of the city that manifests the intricacy and thoroughness in which its builders had designed it for shielding the city from invaders. The moat around the high and impressive wall was crossed by a drawbridge that had led to a double gate, and the holes that are seen today in the stone are witnesses for the door hinges and rill of the draw grated gate. The wall hoardings are wider from within and narrower from the outside for allowing protection to the guards in the guardhouse and machicolation as well as for increasing the shooting capacity against any attackers. From the head of the wall the guards used to threw boiling oil or stones that were especially prepared for this matter. The two angular turned walls behind the entrance to the city were designed especially to slow the movement of any attacking force that might break through the gates. To the Crusaders' much regret all this didn't help when the city was finally taken from their hands.

After entering the city we would turn to our left, southward, and pass next to some of the street's shops until we will reach a covered postern in the wall. This hidden entrance allowed the Crusade to exit, deliver messages and receive essentials during sieges. We will turn right to the church compound, which replaced an ancient mosque that was built on an ancient temple from Herod time and was dedicated to Rome and Augustus Caesar that deified himself. From here we will have a nice view to the remnants of a Bosnian village from the 19^th century and to the breakwater of today's port. The ancient port is buried few meters below the sea, and it is little north to our days' dock. During the Crusader period and most certainly through the Roman days, it was an outstanding one among the Judea Province ports. Herod invested immense amount of money in rebuilding the harbor, which unlike other natural-bay ports in Israel like Jaffa, Acre and Dor's, and it consisted of some parts. Herod built a massive artificial breakwater deck that supplies haven for anchored ships; however with time, its foundations didn't hold on and the port had sunk below the sea, and today only by diving it is available to explore it.

We will walk toward the Roman city through the artisan market and a gate. Just keep in mind that 2000 years ago, the water level was lower than today, and therefore the hippodrome to our south was located then not so close to the sea. During heading to its direction, we will notice the big storerooms to our left which used for storing grains and goods from the port. Just imagine yourself the hustle and bustle of business in this important port of the Land of Israel, and you could virtually smell the fish and spices. Turn left, eastward, in front of the hippodrome, e.g. a field for chariot racing, continue to the business area and explore the public latrine and tax collector archives that you will see in your way. We will turn right to a luxuriant mansion and afterwards to a bathhouse. While walking through it, we will pay attention to the elegant mosaic and various rooms. Using soap wasn't so widespread in past time, and the passage from the cold room through the lukewarm room and hot room facilitated the opening and cleansing of dermis pores. Add to it the sauna of the steam and what you will get is quite a neat refreshing treat. Notice the clay pipes that transfer hot air and water through the walls and floor.  

The Hippodrome

We will return back to the 95 X 460 meters hippodrome [311 x 1,510 feet] which used for two or four racing chariots (in this context watching the film Ben Hur or reading the book are most recommended). The hippodrome was embellished in its midst with a glorious obelisk which was based on a stone foundation. The hippodrome holds 10,000 seats, which manifests the city's influential power and extent. 

We will take direction to the sea and to a staircase leading to Herod's palace and its inner private swimming pool. To vision its enormity we will refer back to Josephus Flavius' descriptions: 1. ABOUT this time it was that Cesarea Sebaste, which he had built, was finished. The entire building being accomplished: in the tenth year, the solemnity of it fell into the twenty-eighth year of Herod's reign, and into the hundred and ninety-second olympiad. There was accordingly a great festival and most sumptuous preparations made presently, in order to its dedication; for he had appointed a contention in music, and games to be performed naked. He had also gotten ready a great number of those that fight single combats, and of beasts for the like purpose; horse races…. He also sent all sorts of ornaments for it out of his own furniture, that it might want nothing to make it decent; nay, Julia, Caesar's wife, sent a great part of her most valuable furniture [from Rome]… Now when a great multitude was come to that city to see the shows, as well as the ambassadors whom other people sent, on account of the benefits they had received from Herod, he entertained them all in the public inns, and at public tables, and with perpetual feasts; this solemnity having in the day time the diversions of the fights, and in the night time such merry meetings… from The Antiquities of the Jews, book 16:5. Courtesy of  http://www.earlychristianwritings.com/text/josephus/josephus.htm

From here, our way will lead us up through the gate to a remarkable garden where we could learn about Roman architecture, column capitals and more until it will take us to the Roman theatre with its 4,000 seats. It was strictly built according to a theatre design criteria and has two galleries, an orchestra hall laid with marble tiles and a magnificent Scaenae Frons, e.g. the upstage that was an elaborately decorated background of the stage.

Here we will end our tour. A short walking on the asphalt road will bring us back to the parking lot.  

Nahal Taninim

It is recommended to connect this route with the aqueduct route of Caesarea, the Nahal Taninim route and to enjoy the sunset in the Keshatot beach which is little north to the antiques. Visit also the Museum for Caesarea Antiques in the nearby Kibbutz Sdot yam.

Links

The Caesarea Development Corporation:  http://www.caesarea.org.il

the Museum for Caesarea Antiques:  http://www.kef-yam.co.il/kefyam_tourism/tourism_museum_antiques.htm

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